Category: Runway Reviews

Mahgul for Nasreen Shaikh at PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week 2013

Mahgul for Nasreen Shaikh debuted her capsule collection at the ZONG Promotes Emerging Talent segment of PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week 2013. Titled ‘The Archive Collection’, the new designer found inspiration in old photographs from the Civil and Military Gazette to create pieces that attempted to re-invent a traditional aesthetic sensibility in a more modern context. Based in fabrics such as Stretch Denim, Cotton, Satin and Organza, the collection featured structured and darted silhouettes with touches of cut and thread work in a monochromatic colour palette with hints of blue. The collection channeled the ethos of ready to wear as separates replete with high waisted shalwars, organza tops, summer jackets et al. We LOVE LOVE LOVE the clutches. Meesha Shafi walked the ramp as Mahgul’s showstopper. What an original and fantastic debut!

The retail version of ramp collection available as of June 2013 in Lahore/Karachi/Islamabad at the PFDC, Labels, Ensemble and L’atelier.

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Mahgul and Amir Rashid

Mahgul and Amir Rashid

INTERVIEW WITH MAHGUL RASHID

1.What inspired you this season?

Black and white photography

2.How would you sum up your collection in five words?

For the love of statement

3.What has been your personal best fashion moment so far?

Surviving fashion week!

4.What’s the best thing anyone has ever said about your work?

That they can’t wait to wear it.

5.What is your biggest strength as a designer?

Good taste.

6.What are your favourite colors to work with and why?

I enjoy working with an array of colours, but do particularly shy away from neons.

7.What are your favourite fabrics to work with and why?

Will have to be net and georgette – love the fall of these fabrics.

8.How would you define your personal style?

Classic

9.How would you define the style your line exemplifies?

Modern simplicity.

10.What matters to you most as a fashion designer?

Fit and an individual’s ability to carry off something.

11.Who is one of your favourite models to work with?

Meesha Shafi

12.How would you define the fashion scene in Pakistan?

Burgeoning

13.What is your favourite international design house?

Givenchy

14.What is your current state of mind?

Chaotic Zen

15.Where can readers find out more about you and your work?

On our Facebook page – http://www.facebook.com/MahgulForNS

Shehla Chatoor at PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week 2013

PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week  2013’s Day-2 was opened by fashion designer Shehla Chatoor who presented her Spring/Summer 2013 Collection, Soigne, an ode to the eloquence of architecture and the splendor of ornament. For this collection, Shehla transformed fabrics into a sublime sculptural form with elegant lines and a defined silhouette. The designer  primarily used silks coupled with gold chains, metallic mesh, streaming tassels and lattice-like leather cut-work embellishments to complete the look. The collection featured fluid and sinuous togas, cocktail dresses and wraps that draped the body with grace and femininity.

What we liked best were the luxurious original prints that Shehla had printed on her own signature fabric with a confluence of colour using elaborate cameo motifs and swirling arabesques. Each print had been hand-made in-house to create an orchestra of design emblazoned with playful putti in beribboned cartouches, mythic gargoyles, resplendent acanthuses and elaborate festoon friezes.

For this season, Shehla contrasted vibrant lime green and striking orange with subtle nudes, opulent yellows and golds, all laced through with perennial black. We absolutely loved the colours she used. To complete her concept, Shehla had manufactured bespoke accessories and hand bags, as well as gladiator sandals and shoes (we preferred the gladiator flats to the high heels as they took away from the otherwise sophisticated look).  It was great to see fashion designer Sadaf Malaterre as Shehla’s show-stopper, because while Shehla and her collections are always very luxurious, glamourous and sexy, by asking Sadaf to walk for her, Shehla showed how to work the same glamourous look in a more laid back, casual way.


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INTERVIEW WITH SHEHLA CHATOOR

1.What inspired you this season?
My collection Soigné pays homage to the eloquence of architecture and splendor of ornament. Fabric is transformed into sublime sculptural form with elegant lines and flawless silhouettes.

2.How would you sum up your collection in five words?
Soigné, classic, sophisticated, uber-glam, sensual.

3.What has been your personal best fashion moment so far?
Quite a few amazing one’s, like when I dressed up celebrities across the border or winning The Best Designer Award for my Spring Equinox Collection. Hoping for more!

4.What’s the best thing anyone has ever said about your work?
“Shehla is one stop for traditional, timeless, meticulous eastern and bridal wear, at the same time edgy, uber glam western wear. Not to forget the glam accessories.”

5.What is your biggest strength as a designer?
Have command on oldest and most intricate art embroidery forms, be it gara, zardozi, mukesh or tila. At the same time on trendy, edgy, glam western silhouettes and accessories.

6.What are your favourite colors to work with and why?
For my bridal and trousseau wear I like traditional colors like emeralds, deep purples, corals, and even champagnes.
For western it depends on what I am inspired by at the moment, currently lime, emerald and gold. As you can see in “Soigné” Spring/Summer 2013.

7.What are your favourite fabrics to work with and why?
For my eastern wear I like to work with delicate French nets, for my western I love amalgamating various fabrics like exotic leather, luxurious silk and even metal.

8.How would you define your personal style?
Classic and sophisticated.

9.How would you define the style your line exemplifies?
Uber glamorous, luxe western wear and timeless, heirloom like bridals and trousseau wear.

10.What matters to you most as a fashion designer?
Clothes should have timeless appeal with meticulous finishing.

11.Who is one of your favourite models to work with?
We have some really talented girls in our country, Rabia Butt and Amna Ilyas are fabulous and so are many others. Since our fashion industry is growing leaps and bounds, we do need more new faces and talent.

12.How would you define the fashion scene in Pakistan?
We are definitely growing and evolving as an industry, I will go further by saying that it is the fastest growing industry in Pakistan. Luxury prêt is the buzzword, yet one can’t deny the importance of bridal and trousseau wear in our country.

13.What is your favourite international design house?
So many, loving Mary Katrantzou’s prints at the moment. McQueen’s drama, Alber Elbaz’s drapes and many more.

14.What is your current state of mind?
Fatigued and overwhelmed with the response I got from PSFW Lahore after showcasing Soigné. Thank you Lahore, indeed was a marvelous experience!

15.Where can readers find out more about you and your work?
My FB page is updated regularly with all press, events, images and upcoming exhibitions. http://www.facebook.com/ShehlaC

Faiza Samee at PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week 2013

The final day of PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week 2013’s Prèt Show was opened by designer Faiza Samee who showcased her Spring/Summer 2013 collection. Inspired from her voyage through the Central Asian landscapes and the old world romance of Czarist Russia, the collection’s prints were a translation of fusion between the ethnic Central Asian weaves and vintage Russian Chintz. The designer used light and luxurious fabrics coupled with a variety of textures and weaves in fresh spring colours. The collection included short to mid-length tunics, some cut on the bias along with loose comfortable pants all handmade (the label’s signature) to ensure luxury and quality. The designer’s collection was modern, youthful and possessed a lean silhouette, allowing today’s woman to build her own look by combining a series of separate pieces. Faiza Samee’s collections are always a lesson in quality and originality. We love it!

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Photos courtesy of Faisal Farooqui at Dragonfly

INTERVIEW WITH FAIZA SAMEE

1.What inspired you this season?
I was inspired by a journey through Central Asia using the textiles and weaves as my starting point and the vintage chintz patterns evocative of Czarist Russia.

2. How would you sum up your collection in five words?
Luxurious. Effortless. Elegant. Fresh. Modern.

3.What has been your personal best fashion moment so far?
With a career spanning thirty years, there have been many highs like when I designed costumes for the V&A (Victoria and Albert Museum), or when I made Benazir Bhutto’s wedding outfit. But I live in the now and look to the future.

4.What is your biggest strength as a designer?

I love colour and I have a real affinity with it. I would say my strength lies in being able to handle print and colour together.

5.What are your favourite colors to work with and why?

They change every few months. I’m in love with a new palette each season. This season it’s shades of cobalt, rose and black and white.

6. What are your favourite fabrics to work with and why?

Pure fabrics (most of which we weave in-house) because I like to use the best possible materials to provide a premium quality product.

7.How would you define your personal style?

I’m a bohemian at heart yet there’s this other part of me that loves sophisticated elegance.

8. How would you define the style your new collection?
An edgy, lean silhouette. With a series of separates which can be combined to create an individual look. Short to mid length tunics, paired with loose flowing trousers allowing for ease of movement.

9. How would you define the style your line exemplifies?
I love reinventing myself and fashion gives me the perfect platform to do that.

10. Who is one of your favourite models to work with?
I enjoy working with quite a few- can’t single out any one in particular.

11.How would you define the fashion scene in Pakistan?
Vibrant and eclectic.

12.What is your favourite international design house?
I love Etro, because its classic yet very exciting.

13.What is your current state of mind?
Happy and at peace. Thankful to Allah that I am able to pursue my passion for creativity and design.

14.Where can readers find out more about you and your work?
Our website: http://www.faizasamee.com/

Maheen Karim at PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week 2013

Maheen Karim presented her Spring Summer 2013 collection ‘Paradise’, which was the maiden foray of the label into the world of ready-to-wear digital prints. The luxury fabrics used by Maheen Karim had for the very first time been beautified through the use of vibrant summer prints. Luxury silks are Maheen’s forte, which she masterfully coloured using a palette of bright vivid summer hues of green, blue, oranges, yellow, deep maroons, and magentas. These dramatic splashes of colour bled into each other and formed a vivacious print which made for a delightfully fun silhouette. This collection is the answer to the perfect summer resort wardrobe.

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Photos courtesy of Faisal Farooqui at Dragonfly

INTERVIEW WITH MAHEEN KARIM

1.What inspired you this season?

Colour- bright summer fresh colours!!!

2.How would you sum up your collection in five words?

Paradis, Playful, Colourful, Chic and Elegant

3.What has been your personal best fashion moment so far?

I can’t say I have had a BEST yet!!! Am hoping for better, more fashion fabulous moments.

4.What’s the best thing anyone has ever said about your work?

“Maheen is the evening dress and jumpsuit queen!” That feels great to hear as my main aim is to make a woman feel beautiful.

5.What is your biggest strength as a designer?

Training in pattern cutting.

6.What are your favourite colors to work with and why?

I would use any colour as long as it works well with the silhouette and looks elegant.

7.What are your favourite fabrics to work with and why?

Silks, I feel I drape luxury fabrics better than any others because I enjoy creating evening ensembles.

8.How would you define your personal style?

I prefer elegant to trendy.

9.How would you define the style your line exemplifies?

Again, I would say chic and elegant evening wear.

10.What matters to you most as a fashion designer?

The silhouette and the finishing.

11.Who is one of your favourite models to work with?

There isn’t just the one, I have had good experiences with everyone I have had a chance to work with.

12.How would you define the fashion scene in Pakistan?

The industry is growing in leaps and bounds. More and more people are taking it seriously as a business, fashion weeks are showcasing top notch talent and retail is growing at a really fast pace. It’s fantastic!

13.What is your favourite international design house?

Azzedine Alaia, Alexander Mcqueen, Chanel, Dior to name a few.

14.What is your current state of mind?

Frantic!

15.Where can readers find out more about you and your work?

We have a Facebook page Click here with all the label’s information, press kits as well as images. It has all the information you need including a list of stockists.

Muse at PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week 2013

Muse presented their Spring/Summer 2013 collection inspired by the romantic spirit of a beautiful woman and European gardens palaces. Based in crepes, the designer duo at Muse projected cuts with floor sweeping shirt dresses with side slits embellished with touches of thread work and pearls in shades of chateau grey and alpine green. Key trends highlighted in this collection were full length crepe dresses that promise quiet luxury as well as their signature delicate embellishments. Always beautiful and wearable, we would like to see newer cuts and edgier embellishment from one of our favourite design houses.

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Photos courtesy of Faisal Farooqui at Dragonfly

INTERVIEW WITH MOEED YOUSAF AND FARYAL AFTAB OF MUSE

1.What inspired you this season?

The beauty and grandeur of the gardens surrounding European palaces.

2.How would you sum up your collection in three words?

Opulent, intricate, and decadent.

3.What has been your personal best fashion moment so far?

Ours will come when we stock at Bergdorf, Browns, Le Bon Marche, or when Marion Cotillard wears MUSE.

4.What’s the best thing anyone has ever said about your work?

“You can spot a MUSE outfit from a mile away!”

5.What is your biggest strength as a designer?

Our unique aesthetic – beautiful embellishments, luxurious fabrics, and immaculate finishing.

6.What are your favourite colors to work with and why?

Alpine Green – it’s so opulent .Chateau Grey – it’s a very versatile color for embellishment.

7.What are your favourite fabrics to work with and why?

Crepe – it falls beautifully and feels so luxurious. Tulle – it is sheer luxury. Vintage French Lace – it is so understated and yet so opulent.

8.How would you define your personal style?

Sophisticated and decadent.

9.How would you define the style your line exemplifies?

Romantic, feminine, and luxurious.

11.Who is one of your favourite models to work with?

Cybil.

12.How would you define the fashion scene in Pakistan?

It’s young, but has a lot of promise.

13.What is your favourite international design house?

It’s a tie between the new Valentino and Lanvin.

14.What is your current state of mind?

Moving on from the gardens we want to create something that looks fresh and sheer, and reflects light. Tulle is on our mind.

15.Where can readers find out more about you and your work?

www.muse.pk and www.facebook.com/MuseLovesFashion

Ali Xeeshan at PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week 2013

Ali Xeeshan is one of the few designers who knows how to put on a superb runway show. His concept is always original and his accessories always add an element of fun to his clothes. We have to say that it was definitely the most energetic and exhilarating show of the night.

For this collection, titled ‘Jalsa-e-Ishq’, Ali drew inspiration from the “aura of a political situation” as he described it. The collection was based in an array of sheer nets and solemn organzas in cultured pearls and filigree embellishment. Based entirely in shades of white, the collection also included menswear pieces. We loved the red hearts. Key collection trends being highlighted were the contrast of sheer & opaque, monochrome stripes, batwings, metallic and high waist lowers. Although all the models looked super hot in all white ( esp Nooray Bhatti and Rabia Butt) with what looked like bejewelled face masks, Meesha Shafi stole the show as Ali Xeeshan’s show-stopper and our hearts skipped a beat when she came out covered by a sheer umbrella.

Photos courtesy of Faisal Farooqui at Dragonfly

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Feeha Jamshed at PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week 2013

Inspired by how women have discovered and transformed themselves from the beginning of 19th century through the 60s and finally reaching the quintessential 90s working women, Feeha Jamshed presented her Spring/Summer Collection at the PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week. Feeha used colours such as blacks, whites and metallic on an array of experimental surfaces such as sequin, embroidered fabrics and leather. The entire collection was based on the cuts of 90s with the 60s prints and vice versa and predominately consisted of a variety of pants: cigarette, skinny harem, sailor cropped, cu-lots, draped and pixie tunics with a slight safari vibe; with a variety of sleeves and various textures throughout the pieces completing the masculinity in feminine clothing.

Feeha Jamshed and Haider Ali Baig established their label in early 2012 to bridge the gap between high-fashion and affordability; concepts that were born from the secret brilliance of Pakistani couture and Feeha’s inherited passion to make it accessible for the masses. The basic ideology of the brand is to promote Pakistani fashion on the international platform, bring new norms into feminine wear and provide affordable fashion to masses. The brand also strives to be socially responsible entity by participating in various charitable causes and actively donates a portion of their proceeds. This was the labels most risky and edgy collection yet and it was super! We especially loved the black and white prints, some with neon skinny belts, and divine metallic pants.

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Photos courtesy of Faisal Farooqui at Dragonfly

INTERVIEW WITH FEEHA JAMSHED

1.What inspired you this season?

Women. From the women in the 50s, becoming conscious of their bodies, to the 60s where the experimentation began, to the 90s challenging themselves in the work field. All these three women combined to create ONE who is going back to her femininity and roots as a complete individual and becoming, uninhibited.

2.How would you sum up your collection in five words?

Empowerment, strong, independent, feminine & uninhibited.

3.What has been your personal best fashion moment so far?

Designing the awami jumpsuit.

4.What’s the best thing anyone has ever said about your work?

The best compliment I received was a nod from my dad when he saw an article in the newspaper.

5.What is your biggest strength as a designer?

Sampling.

6.What are your favourite colors to work with and why?

I like black and white as it’s like a blank canvas. They challenge me as a designer.

7.What are your favourite fabrics to work with and why?

Malai cotton & Lattha (diffused cotton). It is challenging to get something flowy and structured with one fabric.

8.How would you define your personal style?

Casual chic.

9.How would you define the style your line exemplifies?

Sexy in the parameters of modesty.

10.What matters to you most as a fashion designer?

To get fashion on the street, not just in someone’s drawing room.

11.Who is one of your favourite models to work with?

I don’t have a favourite in particular anymore.

12.How would you define the fashion scene in Pakistan?

It’s booming!

13.What is your favourite international design house?

Old school YSL, Haider Ackerman, Alexander Wang & Givenchy. My new favorite is Prabal Gurung.

 14.What is your current state of mind?

You don’t want to know.

15.Where can readers find out more about you and your work?

You could find us on the street, closets, retail stores and social media.